+ What is PMU (Permanent Makeup)?

Permanent Makeup (PMU) is also known as micro-pigmentation cosmetic tattoo. Older methods of permanent cosmetic tattoos deposit deeper into the dermis layer of skin. The deeper pigment is deposited into the dermis, the more permanent it becomes, however, the ink tends to pool out. Although PMU is also distributed into the dermis, it only reaches the top layer. It is a form of semi-permanent tattooing that is designed to last between 2 - 3 years, in which it will slowly fade away completely.

+ What is the difference between the technology of PMU now vs. the old ways of eyebrow and lip tattooing?

The short answer: EVERYTHING! From equipment to technique to pigments, and lastly, design, as brows evolve and trends change. We are now seeing people who like more natural and fuller brows, as opposed to before where precision and thin eyebrows were in.

The old method of cosmetic tattoos used the same equipment and ink as body tattoos. A coil tattoo machine with thicker needles (0.3 – 0.4mm in diameter) was used causing more pain and a longer healing period. Larger molecules of tattoo ink were injected deep into the skin, which made the healed result more stiff and permanent. However, the color was prone to discoloration.

The new generation of permanent makeup (PMU) with refined equipment and much lighter techniques, is actually semi-permanent and lasts 2 – 3 years. A rotary machine with thinner needles (0.2 – 0.35mm diameter) is used, allowing higher precision and shorter healing downtime. Pigments used in PMU are smaller in molecules, which can be layered for a more natural and softer look.

+ How long does a semi-permanent brow tattoo last? (Powder Brows; Ombre brows; Microblading; Nano Strokes)

There are several factors that affect how long a brow tattoo will last. The first is the style chosen. Powder and ombre brows tend to last longer, whereas microblading and nano strokes that mimic hair-like strands will require more frequent touch ups to stay sharp looking. Other factors that can affect retention of the tattoo are the following:

• Pigments used: Quality and molecule size of the pigment.
• Saturation of pigment: Higher saturation means it will last longer, which comes from applying multiple layers of pigment.
• Skin type: Tattoos will stay longer on dry skin as opposed to oily skin.
• Color chosen: Darker shades will take longer to fade than lighter shades.
• Lifestyle activities: Hot yoga, intense exercise, steam room/sauna use will speed up pigment lightening.
• Metabolism, immune system and age: Pigment will fade faster on younger individuals because of their fast metabolisms and stronger immune systems.
• Use of skin care products: exfoliating products and treatments such as acids, retinol, and lasers can fade pigment faster.

+ What is microblading, powder brows, ombre brows, combo brows, blade and shade, nano strokes?

There are so many different names for techniques used in the industry that it can be confusing, even for artists. The definition of “powder brows,” for example, can mean different techniques depending on the artist and, therefore, results may vary. This is why it is VERY important to refer to an artist’s portfolio.

Here are some fundamental points to help you differentiate between the equipment, techniques, and styles artists’ can create.

There are two main types of equipment that can be used: a microblade vs. PMU tattoo machine.

Microblade - a tool made with a line of needles. PMU tattoo machine - a smaller sized machine equipped with fine nano needles.

Here are the main differences in techniques:

• Microblading is done by using only a microblade, which mimics hair strokes by depositing pigment through cuts.
• Powder brows and ombré brows are done by the PMU tattoo machine with needles and mimics eyebrow powder makeup. This could be very soft to very bold.
• Nano strokes are done by the PMU tattoo machine with needles and mimics hair strokes. This is the upgraded technique replacing microblading. It allows more variety in creating patterns because no cutting is involved. It requires much more time and skill to create.
• Combo brows, blade and shade are a combination of both powder/ombre brows and nano strokes.

+ What is Lip Blush? How long does lip blush last?

Lip Blush is a form of PMU that can enhance lip color, improve shape and definition, and even out natural color or correct undesirable natural tones.

When it is done correctly, the result should be very natural and does not look like a tattoo.

Lip blush, after an initial session with a follow-up touch up, should last about 2 – 3 years before it fades away. Fading depends on pigment choice, saturation, aftercare, lifestyle, metabolism, etc. Touch ups are suggested after around 1 – 2 years.

+ What's the difference between lip filler and lip blush? Can lip blush replace lip filler?

Lip Blush gives a two-dimensional definition of shape and color to your lips and can provide the illusion of a fuller pout. A common side effect can be temporary swelling of the lips, which happens immediately after the procedure and lasts up to 2 days. This adds to the misconception that a Lip Blush procedure adds volume, but they will go back to their normal volume after the healing process.

If pigment is deposited outside of your natural lip line in an attempt to make the lips appear bigger, the healed results will look unnatural.

Lip filler, on the other hand, increases three-dimensional volume in your lips by injecting an additional substance, such as hyaluronic acid.

+ So, can Lip Blush replace Lip filler?

The simple answer is no. They address different concerns: definition and color (lip blush) verses volume (lip filler).

+ Am I able to do the lip blush procedure and then go for a lip filler treatment right after? How long should I wait in between?

You are not limited to one or the other, however, we advise that you allow 4 weeks in between each procedure. We recommend to do the lip blush first and proceed with lip fillers after. Lip fillers can change the texture of the lips, making it more difficult to tattoo.

+ Does brow PMU hurt? Does Lip blush hurt?

Everyone’s pain threshold is different. Our clients have felt anywhere between a scale of 0 – 5 out of 10 in terms of pain. The area that is most sensitive when it comes to PMU is the center part of the lips for lip blush. We use a safe and very effective topical numbing agent to minimize discomfort during any procedures. Some factors that can affect pain tolerance include:

• Sun exposure
• Old cold sore scars
• Certain oral medications
• Being on or near the start of your menstrual cycle

+ What to look for from a PMU artist?

Due to little regulation for the cosmetic and tattoo industry in Canada, certificates are not a guarantee of quality of training or work.

A good PMU artist should have a presentable portfolio that showcases the style and detail of their work. Photos should be high quality without heavy filtering and retouching, and preferably have a variety of photos such as close-ups, different angles, and full face. They must not only document before and after photos, but also include the final healed results. Experienced PMU artists will ensure that the results look similar after the healing process. Whereas inexperienced artists’ results may look quite different from immediately after.

+ What should I do to prepare for my PMU appointment?

Please avoid the following:

• Drinking alcohol and caffeine on the day of appointment.
• Intense sun exposure to the treatment area 24 hours before appointment.
• Taking ibuprofen/Advil, Aspirin, niacin, vitamin E, fish oil, and any type of blood thinner 48 hours before appointment. Tylenol is okay.
• Chemical peels, lasers or any intense treatment at least 4 weeks beforehand.

Please book your appointment time accordingly by reading the aftercare instructions and plan for the downtime period.

Reference photos are welcome and encouraged to show your artist what you like and what you don’t like in terms of shape, style, shades of colours, etc. Note that reference photos are not meant to be copied exactly, as each individual’s features are unique.

For lip blush clients – please wear moisturizing lip balm as much as possible (24/7) for at least five days prior to your appointment. You will also be required to get a doctor’s prescription for Valtrex by your appointment day to prevent potential outbreaks of cold sores. Tip: Feel free to bring your favourite coloured lipstick in order to colour match.

+ What to expect during our PMU appointment?

We believe the best result is the product of good communication, meticulous design, and creating with passion. You will not be rushed in or out of these procedures.

Our appointments are longer than average, to allow time for adjustments and revisions during the pre-drawing process. This ensures all of our clients are happy with the alignment and shape.

As PMU is a tattoo made to enhance facial features, we do not believe in a cookie-cutter approach. Our main goal is to create the most natural effect that flows with the rest of the face. This requires high attention to detail and precision, which takes time to build, therefore, there are no shortcuts.

Here is what you can expect at each stage of an initial appointment:

Consultation and pre-drawing (about 1-1.5 hr)

• Discuss desired outcome and go over color swatches
• Design the shape
• Make any adjustments with preliminary drawings until the client is satisfied

Tattooing (about 2 hours)

• The PMU artist’s main focus is on their tattoo work, therefore, talking will be at a minimal and only when necessary

+ What to expect after brow PMU & lip blush ?

Following the appointment, you may experience some minor swelling and soreness in and around the tattooed area. Colors will appear darker on brows and more vibrant for lips in the first several days, but they will soften up during the healing process. The true color and results will be seen at four weeks post-treatment.

During the healing process light scabbing or flaking is expected. For lips, this occurs within 2 - 5 days. For eyebrows, it is usually between 4 - 7 days. It is completely normal to experience some itchiness. Please refrain from picking at scabs and peeling skin. With our much gentler technique, it is rare to have lymphatic fluid come out compared to old tattoo methods.

Clients are able to resume their daily activities immediately after the procedure, without having to take time off work or any social settings.

+ What can I expect at touch up sessions?

The purpose of a touch up session is to restore faded pigments, adjust color, and possibly change shape (depending on the previous style and length from the previous session).

The session will typically be shorter and the cost is dependent on how much work is required to complete the touch up.

After the initial session for any brow or lip tattoos, a touch up is recommended 4 – 6 weeks after. If the client is happy with their initial result, this is not necessary. However, we do highly encourage all of our clients to come back for a follow-up appointment to take photos of their healed results for their personal client records.